Frequently Asked Questions

Published national ranges are $1.50 to $3.50 per square foot for open-cell and $3.00 to $5.00 for closed-cell (HomeGuide, 2026), with many installers setting a $1,000 to $2,000 or higher minimum. Your total depends on the surfaces sprayed and the thickness. We measure and give you a written price.

HomeGuide puts a whole house at $8,000 to $20,000 and Fixr at $10,000 to $30,000. The range is wide because a 2,000 sq ft house can have very different amounts of roof deck, wall and floor area to foam.

HomeGuide lists about 1,000 square feet of spray foam at $1,500 to $5,000, and Fixr lists $3,150 to $7,500 in an existing home. Thickness and foam type move the number.

Concerns usually involve foam on a roof deck that hides leaks or rot, or poor installs that leave odors. Those are installation and moisture issues. We inspect the roof and framing first and explain where foam belongs.

Closed-cell spray foam is usually the strongest choice under a floor open to wind and moisture, because it adheres, seals air and does not absorb water. Batts under raised floors tend to sag and get wet.

Insulation that got wet usually needs to come out so the framing can dry. Closed-cell foam that stayed intact may not, but we check it. Wet batts, loose fill and open-cell foam generally get removed.

It is often a good option. Foam under the roof deck brings the attic into the conditioned space so the ducts are in cooler air. We check the roof first and compare it with sealing and insulating the attic floor.

The Texas code summary from the Insulation Institute lists R-38 ceilings in Climate Zone 2, which includes Galveston County. The Department of Energy suggests more for existing attics.

Where water or wind can reach the insulation, usually yes. It does not absorb water and holds up better under raised floors and below flood elevation.

Foam reduces humid outdoor air leaking in, which helps. Your air conditioner still handles indoor humidity, and a very tight house may need planned ventilation.

Standard spray foam needs open cavities. For closed walls we usually recommend dense-pack blown insulation, or foam when walls are opened during remodeling.

Properly installed foam that stays dry does not sag or settle. It should last as long as the structure.

Some shingle manufacturers have rules about unvented roof decks. Check your roof warranty, and we can discuss options if that is a concern.

It depends on the house. If ducts and equipment are in the attic, roof deck foam often makes more sense. If not, sealing and insulating the floor is usually cheaper.

Studies and field experience vary, and some shingle warranties have conditions about unvented attics. Check your warranty; we can talk through it.

A radiant barrier can reduce heat gain in a vented attic. It does not replace proper air sealing and insulation depth.

Most attic floor jobs take a day. Roof deck foam may take one to two days depending on size.

Closed-cell spray foam is usually the best performer under floors exposed to wind and moisture because it adheres, seals and does not absorb water.

We remove the fallen material and netting, check the framing, and replace it with closed-cell foam or another option suited to the exposure.

Sometimes, depending on how the space below is used and local rules. We explain what applies to your home.

Yes. Sealing the floor reduces humid outdoor air leaking into the living space.

Usually, with dense-pack through small holes. We plan the access with you; exterior changes on historic properties go through the Landmark Commission.

Closed-cell foam is a strong choice for walls that may see water again, since it does not absorb it. Above flood level, open-cell or batts may be fine.

The Insulation Institute's Texas summary lists R-13 for wood-frame walls in Climate Zone 2.

Not when the wall can dry and leaks are fixed. We look at the siding and wrap before recommending a fill.

Yes, closed-cell foam on the inside of the steel keeps humid air off the metal, which stops condensation.

We do not recommend it against steel in a humid climate, because it lets moisture through to the metal.

Thicker than for a storage building. We base it on how you cool the space and your budget.

Yes. Condensation control protects boats and equipment from dripping water.

Usually. Batts and loose fill that got soaked hold water and lose their value. Intact closed-cell foam may be able to stay after inspection.

As soon as practical, so the framing can start drying and mold does not get a foothold.

Yes. We take down fallen or soaked batts and netting and reinsulate with closed-cell foam or another suitable option.

It should be tested before anyone disturbs it. If it contains asbestos, a licensed abatement contractor removes it.